I Want One!

So, I was wondering what I was going to blog about next, and how soon or late the event would happen. Turns out it wasn’t that late at all.

ThinkGeek have just announced a new product: The Back to the Future Die-Cast DeLorean model.

To quote ThinkGeek:

Have you been hunting for old DeLorean’s on eBay and telling everyone to call you McFly? Well then we have a tasty little nugget to satiate the 80’s lovin’ Back to the Future fanboy in you. This 1:18 scale Back to the Future Die-Cast DeLorean is like a sci-fi obsessed geek’s wet dream. Nope, it doesn’t travel through time… but it does feature a real brushed metal body and intricate details from the movie.

Look inside by raising one of the gullwing doors and you’ll see all the time-travel controls from the movie including a tiny flux capacitor. There’s even a Mr. Fusion on the back to avoid the hassle of stealing plutonium from terrorists. A lever on the bottom makes the wheels fold up for when you run out of road trying to hit 88.

Product Features

  • Detailed die-cast DeLorean model perfectly re-creates the time travel vehicle from Back to the Future
  • Real brushed metal body
  • Intricate detail including a detailed cockpit with flux capacitor
  • Mr. Fusion and exhaust jets on the back
  • Lever on bottom allows wheels to fold up
  • Fully assembled and painted
  • Comes with display base
  • 1:18 scale – 9.5″ in length


Back to the Future Die-Cast DeLorean for sale

Following on..

Following on from yesterdays modelling talk, last night I opened up the Bachmann Spectrum loco I have again. I’d opened it shortly after receiving it when I bought it to see how it looked inside and the prospects of putting a DCC chip in it. I was slightly dismayed to learn it had a solid split chassis, and little space to put a chip, not forgoing the solid metal chassis being almost impossible to isolate the wiring.

I opened it again today to have another look, and having taken it even more apart I learned two things. Firstly, it’s not as bad as it looked. there may be space to place a chip if I try hard enough. Secondly, I can isolate the motor in one of two ways – either by isolating the pickups on the wheels from the chassis, or by isolating the motor from the chassis. Both are fairly easy (could probably be done with just electrical tape), although after looking at the condition of the pickups, they may be the better option. I could also isolate both and leave the chassis neutral. The problem then is placement of the chip itself, as there isn’t a lot of space (at all) to work with. Possibly taped to the chassis directly above the motor. There is also a small space at the back that it might fit into.

When I actually put a DCC decoder in, I’ll write a more comprehensive guide as to what I’ve done.

I still need to figure out how to open the Walthers loco, and then I can work on how to put a chip in that too. It’s a 4 axle, so I’m not so worried about that one (I like 6-axle locos ;-))

I also fixed my father-in-law’s reading glasses last night. This resulted in a small burn on my thumb from touching too-hot solder… my mistake..

Mail yesterday involved a capo for my guitars, and a desoldering tool. Now I can begin working on the laptop again.. Will update later!

Modelling

I currently have 3 active model railroad projects going that are all at 3 different stages.

Firstly, my coffee-table N-scale has all the track required, but nothing to put on it, nor anything to put it on. I know I need a baseboard of approximately 24″x40″, but this has not been purchased, nor has any other framing or electrical equipment.

I have two HO scale layouts still in planning, despite having a large amount (I cataloged it today, more later) of HO scale rolling stock.

I have basic track plans for both of these, the first is based on an Atlas track plan that my Dad and I started work on several years ago and never really got far with. I’m going to modify it a little to allow some mainlines on the front (that can connect with something else when I get that far), and connections from said mainlines to the yard area. I still need to work on how that part is going to work – I’m thinking block-sectioned DCC to allow signaling and automated running.

The second layout is based on an old standard, the Timesaver. This will likely be modified in the same way as the yard above, to allow mainlines with connections. The timesaver would still be able to run either independently or as part of the wider layout (again, when I get that far).

Both of the above would be built on a pair of modules each, and I’ll look at building framing for them both to allow for safe traveling.

What are the next steps? The N scale needs a base-board and rolling stock. I also need some wiring and other wood to build a real table for it to sit in the bottom of. A friend of the family has some cherry wood for free, I need to see what I can do with it.

The Yard layout, I’m awaiting the plans to be sent to me, so I can plan the appropriate modifications, and I can start buying the set-track to complete it, and appropriate sized lumber.

The Timesaver I need to finish the track diagram and purchase the appropriate track and timber. I’ll also probably do this layout with flex track.

Oh yeah, the catalog. On Google docs I made a catalog of all my HO scale rail-bound vehicles (IE, not the containers). I have 14 locos – 12 Norfolk Southern, 1 Union Pacific (Desert Victory!), and 1 Tranz Rail (Bumble Bee DC). I have 9 Passenger cars – 7 B&O, a Union Pacific and a Renfe (Spanish). I also have 19 freight cars, counting the 2 5-unit articulated well sets as 1 each. I’m trying to get a hold of some flat cars (mostly for the time-saver) and a lot more Norfolk Southern/Norfolk Western/Southern branded hoppers (covered and not). I also need a bogie-side for my GP38-2, and a bunch of Digitrax chips. About 7 British Rail Mark 2 cars wouldn’t go amiss either, so I can paint them in the Capital Connection colours.